台灣登山論壇

Lhotse death questions

文章標籤
登山安全

shienndar

2013/5/24


出處: http://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/258328/lhotse-death-questions

Experienced Wanaka mountain guide Mike Roberts has spoken out about the ''emotionally distraught'' experience of trying, unsuccessfully, to rescue a Taiwanese climber who collapsed on Lhotse, the world's fourth-highest mountain.

Mr Roberts, of Wanaka-based Adventure Consultants, said yesterday that after climbing Everest, he had ''become embroiled in the arrangements'' to rescue the incapacitated climber from nearby Mt Lhotse.

Despite the efforts of Mr Roberts and fellow climbers, Taiwanese mountaineer Lee Hsiao-shih subsequently died. Mr Lee was in a state of ''hypoxic collapsed exhaustion'', apparently after having run out of oxygen on his descent from Lhotse three days earlier.

The climber, part of a guided expedition involving a different operator, had apparently been ''left for dead''.

''My mind reeled with questions, foremost was why had an effective rescue not been executed earlier?'' Mr Roberts said on the Adventure Consultants website.

Early on May 20, climbing partner Tendi Sherpa and he had arrived at Camp 4 Lhotse ready to help evacuate the climber to the Lower Lhotse Face, where altitude would permit a long-line helicopter rescue.

Fellow climber Kenton Kool had already spent the night in a tent with Mr Lee ''administering dexamethasone and oxygen in an attempt to keep him alive''.

''My arrival coincided with the emotionally charged process of confirming Mr Lee's tragic death.''

Although both ''emotionally distraught'', he and his friend decided they should attempt to climb Lhotse.

''Somehow I imagined Mr Lee would want us to do this in his honour and this notion spurred me on.''

The two climbers reached the top in just over four hours. Mr Lee's body had been retrieved, and Mr Roberts had since returned to Everest Base Camp.

 


所有回覆

  • 以上報導引述Mike Roberts的看法,可與Dawa Steven Sherpa的版本對照,比較看看有何不同.

    依據所引述Mike Roberts的看法,如果早一點組織一個有效率的救援行動,可能可以避免這個不幸的結局.

    註:

    今年是珠峰首登60週年

    1.Kenton Kool 指的應該是Kenton Cool;

    Kenton Cool 登頂珠峰11次...應該的確就是他陪伴李小石前輩走完人生最後一程

    事發當時的背景是Kenton Cool 要挑戰Everest Horseshoe (Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse;據報導後來3天完登)

    2.Mike Roberts 登頂珠峰7次...在準備救援李小石前輩上也出了力

    事發當時的背景是Mike Roberts 要挑戰24小時完登the double Everest-Lhotse climb (據報導最後以35小時完登)